A couple Fridays ago I had the privilege of visiting the city of Cartago, the site of the greatest pilgrimmage destination in Costa Rica and a huge outdoor market, with my Basico 1 Spanish class.
La Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles reaches up to the heavens on a beautiful, sunny day.
We first stopped at La Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, which houses La Negrita. The story behind La Negrita is that on Aug. 2, 1635, a Native American girl named Juana Pereira found this small black statuette of the Virgin Mary in the woods. Three times she brought it home with her, and three times it reappeared in its original location. She then brought the statuette to a priest, and the same thing occurred. The event was declared a miracle and a shrine, which later became La Basílica, was built at the site. Every year, thousands of pilgrims journey by foot from all corners of Costa Rica and even from the Panamanian and Nicaraguan borders to the site on Aug. 2 to pay homage to La Negrita. After a mass, hundreds of people join a procession carrying La Negrita to Mount Carmel’s church in downtown Cartago, and back again. My host mother along with her daughter and other international students recently made the five-hour trek from San José to Cartago.
The Basico 1 classes were a little late arriving to Cartago, so by the time we got there a mass was going on in La Basílica. We were able to see the inside of the church for a little bit, but out of respect I didn’t take any pictures during the mass. I did notice, though, how some parishioners were making their way to the front of the church on their knees, a sign of penitence for their sins.
We made our way around to the back of the church and, upon entering an open lower level, saw cases of small charms and trinkets protected by panels of glass. Charms in the shapes of arms, legs, heads, bodies, hands, houses, cars and other things serve as tokens of gratitude for answered prayers to La Negrita.
Charms like these probably signify gratitude for healing of ailments of the whole person.
Several cases of charms just like this one line the walls of open basement of La Basílica.
We went further inside and, while La Negrita itself is kept on display on the altar in La Basílica, we saw a replica perched atop the stone where La Negrita was originally found! As a Catholic (and someone who admittedly thought it was the real La Negrita at the time) this was quite an experience.
Behind metal bars sits the stone where Juana Pereira originally found La Negrita.
This mural depicts Juana Pereira finding La Negrita as she looks for firewood.
Next we went to where the holy water from La Basílica runs. Several people were collecting the water drink, washing their faces in it or dousing precious objects in the water. I myself ran my St. Michael´s braid under the water along with some special new objects for people back home!
Manzanas de agua have the texture and color of an apple, but the shape of a wrinkly pear.
We boarded the bus and headed off to the Cartago market. I’ve never seen so many fruits and vegetables in one place in my whole life! Our assignment was to find a certain fruit and ask how much it costs. My professor assigned me manzanas de agua, which are like wrinkly, pear-shaped apples.
I have to admit that the market was kind of intimidating, with vendors constantly trying to tempt you into purchasing their fruits.
I love papayas!!
But I was able to find a very nice woman who sold me some of the most sour blackberries I’ve ever had. It brought me back to the days when my parents, sister and I would pick blackberries from our backyard. Even though they didn’t really taste the way I wanted them to, I could tell they were very fresh and natural!
That wrapped up our day in Cartago. I think I might go back at some point while I’m here – the bus there is less than a dollar!
Here’s to fresh fruit and faith! (Cheesy, but true!)
¡Hasta luego! ¡Pura vida!
-Cara
Pura Vida 